Most cold homes aren't a heating problem — they're an insulation problem. Here's how to find out.
If you're cranking the heat and still living in a house that feels cold, your furnace is probably not the problem. Modern furnaces are efficient enough to heat any reasonably insulated home. What they can't do is keep a home warm when heat is escaping faster than the system can produce it — and in older homes, the walls are almost always where the heat goes.
Here's a look at the most common causes of a persistently cold house, starting with the most likely.
This is the most common culprit in homes built before 1980. Wall cavities were frequently left empty — builders assumed cheap energy would last forever. Walls represent roughly 35% of a home's total heat loss, making them the single largest factor in how comfortable your home feels. Even partial insulation that has settled or shifted can leave large sections of wall effectively uninsulated.
Cold air infiltration is distinct from a lack of insulation, though both often occur together in older homes. Air can enter through gaps around window and door frames, through electrical outlets on exterior walls, and through penetrations where pipes or wires pass through the building envelope. These leaks create localized cold spots and drafts even when the rest of the house is warm.
Heat rises, and an uninsulated or under-insulated attic allows it to escape through the ceiling. Attic insulation is usually the first thing homeowners address — but if you've already done the attic and the house is still cold, the walls are almost certainly next.
Single-pane glass has essentially no insulating value. If you have original windows in an older home, they're contributing to heat loss — but window replacement is expensive and often has a longer payback period than wall insulation. Addressing the walls first typically yields a larger comfort improvement per dollar spent.
You don't need a contractor to take a first look. Here are three ways to check:
On a cold winter day, press your hand flat against an interior surface of an exterior wall. If it's noticeably colder than interior walls, the cavity behind it is likely empty or under-insulated.
Remove the cover plate from an electrical outlet on an exterior wall. Hold your hand near the opening — if you feel cold air or a draft, the cavity is empty and air is infiltrating from outside.
Drill a small hole (1/4") in an inconspicuous spot on an exterior wall — inside a closet, behind a cabinet. Use a thin wire or probe to feel what's inside. Empty means uninsulated.
A professional insulation contractor can also use a thermal imaging camera to show exactly where heat is escaping through your walls — this is sometimes offered as part of a free quote.
The impact of missing wall insulation goes beyond discomfort. Walls are the largest surface area of your home's building envelope, and without insulation, they act like a thin wooden box exposed to the elements. On a 35°F January day in the Pacific Northwest, heat is pouring out of uninsulated walls continuously — and your furnace is running constantly to compensate.
Homeowners who add wall insulation typically report:
If you've confirmed your walls are empty, the good news is you don't need to tear out drywall or siding to fix it. Injection foam insulation is installed by drilling small holes through the exterior siding, injecting foam that fills the entire wall cavity, then patching and sealing the holes. The whole job is typically done in one day, with homeowners staying in the house throughout.
Unlike blown-in insulation, injection foam doesn't settle over time and fills the cavity completely — including around fire blocks and framing members that blown-in materials tend to leave gaps around. Learn more about the options on our How to Insulate Existing Walls guide.
Most homeowners say their house feels noticeably warmer within the first winter after installation. The change is especially pronounced in rooms on the north and west sides of the house, where sun exposure is lowest and walls work hardest.
We serve the greater Seattle and Portland areas. Every free quote includes a wall cavity assessment so you know exactly what you're working with.